ILLUSTRATED  BOOKS 

By  the  author  of  this  volume. 

Price  $i  50  each. 

I.— OUR  ARTIST  IN  CUBA. 
II. — OUR  ARTIST  IN  PERU. 
III. — OUR  ARTIST  IN  ITALY  (in  press). 
IV. — OUR  ARTIST  IN  FRANCK  (in  press). 

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*#*  All  sent  by  mail  free,  on  receipt  of  price ',  by 
CARLETON,  Publisher, 

X  E  \V     YORK. 


OUR 

ARTIST    IN    PERU 

[FIFTY  DRAWINGS  ON  WOOD.] 


LEAVES    FROM 

THE  SKETCH-BOOK  OF  A  TRAVELLER, 

DURING  THE  WINTER  OF  1865-6, 


GEO.  W.   C.ARLETON, 

Author  of  "  Our  Artist  in  Cuba."  etc. 


"  Let  observation,  tcitfi  expansive  view. 
Survey  mankind  from  China  to  Peru.'' 


NEW    YORK: 

Carleton,  Publisher,  413  Broadway. 

London :     S   Low  Son  dr8  Co. 
MDCCCLXVI. 


fc.  u 


xording  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1866,  by 

GEO.  W.  CARLETON, 

In   the   Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United 
States  for  the  Southern  Distria  of  New  York. 


J.  P.  Davis  &  Speer,  Engravers  and  Printers. 


CONTENTS. 


A  PRELIMINARY  WORD. 

No. 

FRIENDLY  COUNSELS -    i 

A  DISAGREEABLE  BERTH       -  2 

A  COLORED  RECEPTION    -  -     3 

THE  NAKED  TRUTH 4 

A  PANAMA  LAUNDRESS 5 

A  MAN'S  A  MAN  FOR  A'  HAT        ....  6 

DOMESTIC  BLISS 7 

A  BIT  OF  A  CHURCH    -        -        -        -        --  '   -'  8 

HOT  WEATHER          - 9 

WHAT  AN  Ass ! --10 

A  HAPPY  FAMILY    --  n 

LAND  AT  LAST .-        -        -12 

CALLAO  CATHEDRAL        -  -  13 

A  BAGGAGE  TRAIN       -        -  14 

THE  CATHEDRAL  AT  LIMA     -  -  15 

A  WATER-CARRIER       ...  16 

A  BAG  OF  CUFFEY        -  -  17 

BIRDS  OF  A  FEATHER  FLOCK  TOGETHER    -        -  18 

A  CHINA  BOWL  OF  SOUP         -  -  19 

A  THING  OF  BEAUTY  is  A  JOY  -  20 

MY    FONDEST    HOPES   DECAY     -  -    21 

A  RAT-IFICATION  MEETING         -  -        -      22 

A  BACK  SEAT  -        --"-  -..-23 

AN   EXCELLENT   VlEW --24 


VI  CONTENTS. 

No. 

BREAD-BASKETS 25 

GOOD  FOR  DIGESTION  ....  .  26 

AN  EYE  FOR  AN  EYE   -  -      27 

WHO  KNOWS?  (NOSE)  -  28 

DISCRETION  IN  VALOR  29 

BLACK  WARRIORS -  30 

Music  HATH  CHARMS 31 

A  CHARIOT  RACE     -  -  32 

AN  ANTIQUE 33 

A  FAMILY  ARRANGEMENT       -  -  34 

HEADS  OF  THE  PEOPLE        -  35 

BY  THEIR  FRUITS  YE  SHALL  KNOW  THEM       -        -        -  36 

A  BEAST  OF  BURDEN 37 

A  NIGHT  ADVENTURE  -  -  38 

A  RUNAWAY  -  39 

THE    LIGHT    FANTASTIC   TOE     -  -    40 

A  ROOSTER   ----  ----41 

A  CHIME  OF  BELLS  -  -        -        -        -  42 

DOG-DAYS 43 

PORK  BUSINESS          ....  .  44 

WHEN  SHALL  WE  THREE  MEET  AGAIN?        -  45 

UNHAND  ME  ! -  46 

NOTHING  VENTURE,  NOTHING  HAVE      -        -                -      47 
A  GREAT  SELL 48 

A    BEGGARLY  SHOW 49 

A  DEAD-HEAD ----50 


A  PRELIMINARY  WORD. 

THE  flattering  reception  that  last  year  at- 
tended the  publication  of  Our  Artist  in  Cuba, 
has  led  its  author  to  issue  this  little  book  of 
a  similar  character,  which  shadows  forth  such 
trifling  but  novel  incidents  as  helped  to  gild 
many  odd  moments  during  a  recent  pleasure- 
trip  to  Peru. 

No  attempt  is  made  to  voluminously  de- 
scribe the  sad  sea  (sicky)  waves  of  the  Atlan- 
tic ocean  in  the  stormy  month  of  February — 
nor  the  sunny  view  of  Cuba,  as  you  pass  its 
eastern  cocoa-wooded  point — nor  that  tempest 
in  a  teapot,  the  Carib  Sea — nor  pandemo- 
nium broke  loose,  the  town  of  Aspinwall,  with 
negroes  thick  like  leaves  of  Vallambrosa,  only 
not  nearly  so  sweet-scented — nor  that  miracle 
of  engineering  skill,  the  Panama  Railroad, 
which  intoxicates  the  susceptive  traveller  with 
its  wild  scenery  and  its  parasitical  fringe  of 
tropical  vegetation — nor  strange,  old,  Spanish 
Panama,  with  its  huge  ecclesiastical  ruins,  its 
Barber-of-Seville  sort  of  streets,  and  its  ever- 
lastingly crowing  game-cocks — nor  that  hottest 
of  little  islands,  Taboga,  from  whose  tranquil 


VI 11  A    PRELIMINARY    WORD. 

bay  the  English  steamers  start  on  their  south- 
ward trips — nor  the  voyage  down  the  Pacific, 
with  vessel  so  comfortable,  sea  so  smooth, 
and  weather  so  chief  among  ten  thousand, 
and  altogether  lovely — nor  the  curious  little 
seaports  at  intervals  on  the  coast,  with  their 
wild  Indian  populations,  and  their  zoological 
and  pomological  surprises — nor  the  arrival  at 
Callao,  where  one  utters  an  Ave  Maria  each 
night,  if  he  hasn't  been  earthquaked  during 
the  day — nor  Lima  it  self ^  that  South  Ameri- 
can paradise,  which  to  describe  would  be  to 
bewilder  Scheherazade  with  all  her  imagina- 
tion. 

These  things,  and  many,  many  more,  does 
the  pocket  note-book  of  Our  Artist  retain 
little  sketchy  impressions  of — and  essaying 
only  to  convey  a  ray  of  information  through 
the  glasses  of  humor,  the  Author  has  multi- 
plied with  printers'-ink  his  book  of  sketches, 
which,  although  caricatures,  are  but  exaggera- 
tions of  aclual  events,  on  the  spur  of  the 
moment  jotted  down,  for  the  same  sort  of 
mere  pastime  as  may  lead  the  reader  to  linger 
along  its  ephemeral  pages. 

NEW  YORK,  July,   1866. 


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AN  AFTERNOON  AT  PANAMA. 


Deeming  it  always  incumbent  upon  the  traveller  to  invest 
in  the  products  of  the  country,  Our  Artist  provides  himself 
with  a  good  sensible  Panama  hat,  and  thus  with  wife  and 
"mutual  friend,"  he  peacefully  and  serenely  meanders  around 
among  the  suburbs  of  the  city. 


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FROM  PANAMA  TO  CALLAO. 


Crossing  the  equinoaial  line,  Our  Artist  discovers  that  the 
rays  of  a  vertical  sun  are  anything  but  bracing  and  cool. 
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DOMESTICS  IN  PERU. 


One  of  the  waiters  at  our  hotel,  clad  in  the  inevitable  poncho 
— A  genuine  native  Peruvian,  perhaps  a  son  of  "  Rolla  the 
Peruvian,"  who  was  "within." 
16 


A  PERUVIAN  COOK. 


Peeping  into  the  kitchen  one  day,  Our  Artist  perceives  that 
a  costume,  cool  and  neglige*,  may  be  improvised  by  making  a 
hole  in  a  coffee-bag  and  getting  into  it. 


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THE  SAD  REALITY. 


Alas !  too  frequently  his  thirsty  eye  is  met  only  by  such 
visions  as  the  above — and  th?  lovely  beauties  of  Lima,  where 
are  they  ? 


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STREETS  OF  LIMA.-CALLE  PALACIO. 


A  young  Peruvian  accompanying  its  mamma  to  market  in 
the  morning. 

23 


STREETS  OF  LIMA— CALLE  PLATEROS. 


A  picturesque  little  mirador  or  lookout  at  the  corner  of 
Calle  Plateros  and  Bodegones,  opposite  the  Hotel  Maury, 
\\  ith  balconies  ad  lib. 

14 


OCCUPATIONS  IN  LIMA. 


The  paiiadero,  or  baker,  as  he  appears  on  his  mite  of  a 
donkey,  rushing  round  through  the  streets  of  Lima,  delivering 
bread  to  his  customers. 

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COSTUMES  IN  LIMA.-THE  SAYA  Y  MANTO. 


Our  Artist  has  heard  a  good  deal  about  the  magnificent 
eyes  of  the  Limanian  women ;  but  as  he  never  sees  more  than 
one  eye  at  a  time,  he  can't  say  much  about  them,  with  any 
regard  for  the  truth. 

27 


HEAD-DRESSES  IN  LIMA.— THE  MANTO. 


The  Seiioritas  look  very  prettily  sometimes,  with  their  black 
mantillas  thrown  gracefully  over  their  heads,  (See  Geogra- 
phies, etc.,)  but  when  you  come  across  a  party  possessing  a 
decided  nose,  in  profile,  the  effect  is  rather  startling. 
28 


REVOLUTIONS  IN  PERU. 


Our  apartments  look  out  upon  the  Grand  Plaza,  where  the 
fighting  usually  takes  place  ;  and  as  the  windows  are  mostly 
broken  by  the  balls  of  the  last  Revolution,  (Nov.  6, 1865,)  and 
it's  about  time  for  another,  Our  Artist  gets  into  ambuscade 
every  time  he  hears  a  fire-cracker  in  the  street. 
29 


THE  WAR  WITH  SPAIN. 


Two  native  and  dreadfully  patriotic  Peruvian  soldiers  on 
review  before  their  superior  officer. 


MARTIAL   MUSIC  IN  PKRU. 


The  National  Hymn,  with  variations,  as  rendered  by  the 
Royal  Band  in  front  of  President  Prado's  palace  on  the  Grand 
Plaza. 

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HAIR-DRESSING  IN  LIMA. 


Ladies'  style  as  seen  at  the  theatre. 

Also  Our  Artist  before  and  after  he  had  his  hair  cut  in  the 
latest  Lima  fashion. 

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TERPSICHORE  IN  PERU. 


Our  Artist  assists  at  a  mask-ball  in  the  Jardin  Otaiza,  and 
is  puzzled  at  the  nationality  of  the  costumes  worn  by  the 
dancers. 

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PRIESTS  AND  FRIARS  OF  LIMA. 


A  theological  discussion  of  the  gravest  import  takes  place 
between  three  jolly  Fathers  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church — 
a  Dominican,  a  Mercedarian,  and  a  Buena-Muertean. 

Scene — The  square  in  front  of  the  church  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  its  crooked  cross. 

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CURIOSITIES   OF  PERU. 


Having  been  informed  by  a  musty  old  sepulchral  monk 
that  the  remains  of  Pizarro  might  be  seen  behind  this  grating. 
Our  Artist  tremblingly  gazes  therein — but  as  it  is  pitch  dark, 
he  doesn't  recognize  Pizarro. 

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LAST  DAY  AT  LIMA. 


A  visit  to  the  Museum — which  contains  a  not  very  remark- 
able collection  of  Peruvian  antiquities — and  where  Our  Artist 
sees  all  that  remains  of  the  once  magnificent  Atahualpa,  last 
king  of  the  Incas. 

Alas,  poor  Yorick  !  To  this  complexion  must  we  come  at 
last. — Fit  sketch  wherewith  to  end  this  strange,  eventful  his- 
tory of  "  Our  Artist  in  Peru." 


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